HydroDiamond + Cold Plasma: A Protocol for Oily Skin with Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation
Two sessions — and post-acne pigmentation looked noticeably less pronounced, while the skin appeared more even in tone and less oily
The client came in with very oily skin, visible congestion, closed comedones, blackheads, post-breakout marks, and pronounced post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on a background of regular breakouts.
Mariangel Hospedales built the protocol around the client's skin condition and goals, combining several technologies in a purposeful sequence.
Meet Mariangel Hospedales
This protocol was performed by Mariangel Hospedales, an esthetician with more than 8 years of experience who specializes in skin care for acne-prone skin, melasma, and hyperpigmentation
Mariangel builds protocols based on skin analysis: what the skin shows, what the client wants, and which sequence of steps will provide the most balanced visible result
Skin Condition & Protocol Goals
Client: male, Fitzpatrick IV
Main concern: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation on a background of regular breakouts
Visible signs: pronounced oily shine, congestion, closed comedones, blackheads, post-breakout marks, uneven texture
Course: 2 sessions
Protocol goal: reduce oily shine, improve the look of congestion, even out texture, and reduce the visibility of dark spots
this case illustrates one possible approach to building a protocol. The sequence of steps, treatment parameters, and home care are selected individually based on the skin's condition, the client's goals, and their response to treatment.
What the Skin Was Showing
Excess sebum and congestion
Sebum combined with dead surface cells was accumulating in the pores, making them look more noticeable and supporting a tendency toward recurring breakouts.
An uneven stratum corneum
Surface buildup of corneocytes made the texture rougher, so the skin looked duller and pores and irregularities appeared more pronounced.
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
In Fitzpatrick IV skin, inflammation can activate melanogenesis, so post-inflammatory pigmented marks often look more pronounced and last longer.
Post-acne surface irregularities
Localized changes in surface relief further disrupted light reflection, making the skin's surface look less smooth and uniform.
Key insight:
when uneven tone is combined with active congestion, working on dark spots alone is not enough. The treatment plan has to account for sebum, surface buildup, texture, and existing post-breakout marks all at once.
Protocol Logic: How Each Step Built the Result
Mariangel structured the first session in the following sequence:
Step 1. Cleansing
What was done: the face was cleansed with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser.
Why: to remove surface sebum and impurities and prepare the skin for the next exfoliation step.
What happens at the surface: cleansing removes excess surface lipids and product residue, creating a more evenly prepared surface for the next step.
Step 2. Chemical Exfoliation
What was done: Mr. Lulu Salicylic Resurfacing Oil was applied for 7 minutes total, including 6 minutes of manual massage, with pressure adapted to the client's sensitivity.
Why: to support exfoliation and prepare the congested areas for extraction.
What happens: salicylic acid interacts well with the skin's lipid environment. It supports the exfoliation of surface corneocytes and helps soften keratin and sebum buildup before extraction.
Step 3. Extraction
What was done: localized manual removal of comedones.
Why: to clear the most visible congested areas after the preceding exfoliative preparation.
What happens: the previous peel helped soften surface buildup, so extraction could be performed with more control and less mechanical stress on the skin.
Step 4. HydroDiamond® Treatment
What was done: a treatment pass with HydroDiamond® technology across the entire face.
Why: to continue surface refinement after the peel and extraction and prepare the skin for the tone-focused step.
What happens: the diamond tip gently resurfaces the stratum corneum while the vacuum simultaneously helps remove loosened corneocytes, excess sebum, and debris. This creates a smoother, cleaner surface before the next step.
Step 5. Tone-Focused Peel
What was done: Mr. Lulu Succinic–Azelaic Powder Peel was applied. After the exposure time, the formula was neutralized with Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser.
Why: to address visible post-inflammatory discoloration and uneven tone.
What happens: Mr. Lulu Succinic–Azelaic Powder Peel is designed to support a more even-looking tone and reduce the visibility of dark spots. The previous steps ensured a clean, evenly prepared surface before the active formula was applied.
Step 7. LED Support
What was done: 10 minutes of blue LED, followed by 5 minutes of red LED.
Why: to complete the active block with light-based support for breakout-prone skin.
What happens: blue LED was used as a support step for skin prone to breakouts, and red LED as a finishing step to support a calmer, more even look after the more intensive part of the protocol.
Step 8. Finishing Care
What was done: Dermachic Azeloglycine Serum and Face Reality Daily SPF 30 Plus.
Why: to complete the protocol with tone support and daily photoprotection.
What happens: azeloglycine is used in formulas to support a more even-looking, balanced tone, and daily SPF is especially important in protocols for uneven tone, since UV exposure can sustain the visibility of hyperpigmentation.
What the Skin Was Showing
Uneven texture
An irregular microrelief makes the surface look visually rougher, emphasizes pores and fine lines, and lowers the overall sense of smoothness and skin quality.
Dehydrated appearance
Reduced water content in the stratum corneum makes the surface less smooth and visually accentuates minor irregularities.
Diffuse pigmentation
Scattered unevenness in tone affects the overall perception of clarity and luminosity.
Home Care Between Sessions
Days 1–4 — recovery phase: washing with water, recovery cream, and sunscreen twice a day
From day 5:
Morning
- Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser
- Circadia Vitamin C Reversal Serum
- Vitamin C Moisturizer
- Sunscreen
Evening
- Mr. Lulu Probiotic Powder Cleanser
- Tranexamic Acid
- Recovery Cream
- Sunscreen
Home care supported the results of the in-office protocol between sessions and complemented the work on uneven tone and the skin's overall condition.
Session 2:
The Next Stage of Working on Texture and Tone
A retinoic peel by Mesoestetic was performed for 5 minutes, then removed with water. The home care routine remained unchanged.
Protocol Synergy
The result came from the sequence.
First, the surface was cleansed and prepared. Then extraction and HydroDiamond® helped reduce visible congestion and make the texture more even. After that, the tone-focused peel worked on an already prepared surface.
Cold Plasma and LED completed the active block without additional mechanical stress.
It was this sequence that allowed a single protocol to address several visible concerns at once: oiliness, congestion, uneven texture, and post-inflammatory discoloration.
Visible Result After 2 Sessions
- post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation became noticeably less pronounced
- the skin appears significantly less oily
- closed comedones and blackheads are less noticeable
- the texture looks more even
- post-breakout marks appear visually softened
The client reported being pleased with the first changes.
SPA MENU POSITIONING
For a spa menu, this approach can be positioned as:
This way, the client sees not just "cleaning + peel," but a structured multi-step protocol built around a specific combination of visible concerns.
ZEMITS TECHNOLOGIES IN THIS PROTOCOL
Case inspiration provided by: @mhbeautyskincare
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